Tentative steps back into 'civilisation'

I wandered into Coen town late last night and stopped at the sExchange Hotel for a XXXX Bitter and to catch up with people on the Internet and post some new photos from

Iron Range National Park

Afterwards I drove back north out of town to find a place a little way off the road to roll out my swag and this morning I woke in the cool before dawn to smell the dry dust and the sweet brown grass. As the air warmed there was a quick sprinkle of rain, no more, which stirred up the ash from the back-burning thereabouts and you could taste the old smoke in the air.

Felt like I had a one beer hangover so I drank a bottle of water, packed up my swag and had some breakfast.

Coen has tar roads, starting nearly 20 kilometres outside town, and in town they are laid out in a grid, with houses and schools and a small medical centre with an ambulance. So much organisation and purpose. 

Too much for me right now.

If I didn't need to go back into town to get fuel and some more supplies I would be avoiding the place and heading back up to the bush into Oyala Thumotang National Park. I'll be doing that as soon as I have stocked up, stay there three days and use up my fresh fruit and vegetables before I have to go through the quarantine station.

Entry from Punsand Bay, Far, Far North Queensland

I'm listening to some of my favourite classical music with the background of the waves on the golden sands of Punsand Beach near the tip of the Cape York Peninsula. I have been in the area for nearly a month now, staying at various spots, and  this Northern Peninsula Area is firmly placed as one of my favourite places. But I do have quite a few favourites! ;-)

The end of the Telegraph Track is close by here at Cable Beach which, as you might suspect, is where the undersea cable to Papua New Guinea started.

Every now and then there is a strengthening breeze and grey clouds roll over and the air is cooler and moist and smells like there might be some rain around.

This has been going on for three weeks. The ground is dusty and grey, tan or red, depending on the type of soil, and any light breeze, or a passing car, will lift it up and swirl it around the place to coat the trees along the narrow roads that wind through the rainforest so that they look like drab cousins of the broad sweeps of green forests along the sea shores and up and over the hills.

The days are warm and humid, around 33 degrees Centigrade, so the easterly breeze is welcome, and the nights are a warm average of 22 degrees, so that I sleep on top of my sleeping bag with the head of my swag facing the breeze, but the net zipped up to keep the insects and spiders away, especially the mozzies and sand flies. They are not too bad here. Back Beach at Mapoon was the worst ... but such a great spot!

Punsand Beach is several kilometres long and ideal for early morning and late evening walks. My camp ground is right on the edge of the beach. Just perfect. I'm going to camp at Cable Beach next, which is a few kilometres to the west and is very quiet without any infrastructure at all. Sounds great!

Well, I had best go for a swim and cool down. More to come later.